John Steven Ltd. focuses on seafood

Restaurant Review

January 14, 2007|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Food: ** (2 stars)

Service: **3 (3 stars)

Atmosphere: **1/2 (2 1/2 stars)

So you think nothing much changes in Baltimore? Fifteen years ago probably the busiest sushi bar in the city was located in a funky Fells Point bar called John Steven Ltd., named after the owner's son's teddy bear. The bar served "American sushi" - that is, rolls made with cooked seafood, which became its signature dish.

Nowadays the Baltimore area probably has as many Japanese restaurants as steak houses. Even if you don't know the difference between sushi and sashimi, your kid does. So it was no surprise to learn that a couple of weeks before my most recent visit, John Steven Ltd. had stopped serving sushi. Its new signature dish doesn't seem to be settled on yet, but it's likely to be something fancier in the seafood line.


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