2005 Edmeades Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($15)

Zinfandel makes several different styles of red wine in California, roughly reflecting the county of origin. One of the most distinctive - and best - is that of Mendocino. This version from the reliable Edmeades winery is an excellent expression of the style - with high-toned, spicy, wild berry flavors, a pleasing acidity and well-concealed alcohol, even at 15.5 percent. It's an excellent value in a red wine ready for early consumption. Serve with: pasta, grilled red meat