Rolling in dough

Test Kitchen

December 06, 2006|By Joannah Hill and Kate Shatzkin | Joannah Hill and Kate Shatzkin,[Sun reporters]

It's time to roll out those pins for holiday baking. But which one is best? The standard double-handled wooden rolling pin of yesteryear has morphed into an array of choices, from brightly colored silicone to marble to French pins large and small.

EVCO WHITE MARBLE COLLECTION ROLLING PIN

$10.99 / / Available at amazon.com

APPEARANCE

By far the most attractive. It's pretty enough to leave on your countertop in its wooden stand.

PERFORMANCE

Pros: It feels cold and stays cold. This is a plus when you're working with pie dough. Its weight required a little extra pressure to move the pin along, but produced a circle of dough of perfect thickness. Cons: The weight makes it unwieldy and not the best choice for more delicate doughs. The pin also did not have a fluid motion when rolling. The dough tended to stick to the pin in patches. Flouring the pin helped little because the flour slid off the smooth surface.

CLEANUP

Easy, but again, a little too heavy to handle comfortably.

BOTTOM LINE Heavy and not the smoothest roll. Only for true fans of marble.

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