2005 Boutari Moschofilero, Mantinia ($15)

WINE FIND

September 13, 2006|By MICHAEL DRESSER

Compared with Italy or Spain, Greece is a latecomer to the modern world of scientific winemaking, but this dry white from the Peloponnese region demonstrates that nation's tremendous potential. The Moschofilero, made from the grape of that name, is an intensely flavorful, bone-dry white with crackling flavors of lemon, apple, melons and minerals. Not only is it elegant and fascinating, it would be a wickedly baffling wine to serve blind to your friendly local wine snob. Serve with white-fleshed fish, such as sole.

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