Innovative menu, but a tight squeeze

Restaurant Review

August 27, 2006|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Food: *** 1/2 (3 1/2 stars)

Service: *** (3 stars)

Atmosphere: ** (2 stars)

Rob Wecker, one of the owners of the Iron Bridge Wine Company, says he thinks of his wildly successful wine bar and small-plates restaurant as a "Cheers with wine," referring to the Boston bar in the 1980s TV show of the same name. By that, he means he and his brother Steve had in mind a place reasonably enough priced that people could come three times a week, instead of waiting for a special occasion. The Iron Bridge caters to regulars, and the staff will probably greet you by name if you eat there more than occasionally.

The brothers wanted to make their wines accessible, so there are categories like "Because I'm Easy (to Drink) Reds" and an "Anything But Chardonnay" flight. The list is short and international, and you pay retail, plus a $5 corkage fee, if you open the bottle on the premises. (The Iron Bridge is also a retail shop, and shelves of wine line the walls of the lounge.)

Poor:]

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