Darren Petty, who owns the Natty Boh Lounge and Canton Station with Charley Alfred, said he's been a National Bohemian fan since he was a young man. Short on cash, he chose the famed Baltimore-brewed beer not because of its taste, though it's not bad at all, but because it was cheap - "$3.50 a case warm, four bucks cold."
Natty Boh is no longer brewed in Baltimore, but the love affair between the city and the the beer continues, thanks in part to Petty and Alfred. The mustachioed, circle-headed Natty Boh logo now winks from the walls of the Natty Boh Lounge, which opened in November on the second and third floors above Canton Station.
Petty explained that he got permission to use the name and decorations from Pabst, which now owns Natty Boh, and Todd Unger, who owns the merchandising rights. So far, the decorations aren't overbearing, but Petty said more will be added. I'm hoping for some restraint - being winked at from every angle could be disconcerting.
The building, which Petty and Alfred purchased about six years ago, dates to 1886, Petty said, and once served as a boardinghouse for the brewery across the street, which made Natty Boh from 1868 until the mid-1980s.
The top floors were used for storage and office space until recently. Now they have the look of so many other restaurants in the city: exposed brick walls, pleasantly worn wood floors and silvery ductwork snaking along the ceiling. The third floor, which also has a bar, is more of a lounge, appropriate for drinks and desserts, Petty said.
The first thing one notices upon walking up the steps from Canton Station - aside from all the images of Natty Boh - is the lack of smoke. While Canton Station is more bar than restaurant - and quite smoky - the Natty Boh Lounge strives to be more restaurant than bar, an establishment worthy of the dapper Mr. Boh's approval.
As one would expect, Natty Boh doesn't stray far from classic Maryland fare like crab dip, cream of crab soup and chicken Chesapeake. But it does offer slightly more ambitious dishes including lobster ravioli tetrazzini ($19.95) and filet mignon ($23.95).
As we sat down with our longnecks of Natty Boh (always 99 cents), we admired the plates that diners around us were enjoying. They were piled high with attractive pieces of meat, generous portions of colorful vegetables and mounds of creamy potatoes.
