2004 Lagaria Chardonnay delle Venezie ($10)

WINE FIND

March 22, 2006|By MICHAEL DRESSER

Italian chardonnay is not a category of wine I would endorse, but this wine is a brilliant exception at a remarkable price. It's well-balanced, subtle and unburdened by excessive or cheap-tasting oak. The flavor profile is what you expect from a good chardonnay - apples, lemon and nuts - with nothing intrusive. It could easily be mistaken for a well-made white Burgundy from a good second-tier village. That's impressive. Serve with salmon or other firm-fleshed fish.

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