Timed fries

TAKEOUT

November 16, 2005|By SAM SESSA | SAM SESSA,SUN REPORTER

One surefire way to test a french fry's resilience is to see if it lasts the car ride home. We ordered fries from four places around the city, but didn't eat them until we got back. Here's how they fared.

Drifter's Raw Bar and Grill

1024 S. Charles St. 410-727-1355

Hours --11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily

Drifter's seasons its regular fries, $2.10, with a little salt and garlic. This order was the largest and the cheapest of the four sampled. About an hour later, the fries still hadn't stuck to each other much or become too tough.

Petit Louis Bistro

4800 Roland Ave. -- 410-366-9393

Hours --5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday; 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

An order of pommes frites, $4.20, sounds a lot fancier than what it is: Thin salted fries, most still with peels on one side. But these fries held up longer than the rest -- still good after1 1/2 hours.

Lager's Pub

2522 Fait Ave. -- 410-342-3100

Hours --11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m. daily

If you order Lager's beer-battered fries, $3.10, you don't have much time. At first, the fries are just right: crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. But after about 20 minutes, they start clumping together and the mushiness sets in.

Brewer's Art

1106 N. Charles St. -- 410-547-6925

Hours --4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday to Saturday; 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday

The fries at Brewer's Art, $4.20, were short and thin but packed with flavor. The restaurant adds garlic and rosemary, making for an unconven- tional and appetizing taste and aroma. It took about 45 minutes for these fries to lose their appeal.

Know of a good carryout place? Let us hear about it. Write to sam.sessa@baltsun.com.

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