1998 Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana Imperial Reserva Rioja ($45). Seven years of aging can do wonders for a fine red wine, as this elegant and mature Rioja shows. This producer, known as CUNE, produces many fine Riojas, but this is one of the best. It's a complex, medium-bodied wine with intense black cherry, herb and vanilla flavors. The finish is smooth and persistent. Match this beauty with a fine and simply prepared cut of red meat.
- - Michael Dresser
