Wine Of The Week

WINE OF THE WEEK

September 07, 2005|By Michael Dresser

2002 Coppo L'Avvocata Barbera d'Asti ($15). This exceptional value is one of a trio of mind-blowing barberas from this producer in Italy's Piedmont region. (The others are the 2001 Camp de Rouss for $18 and the 19981 Pomorosso at about $50.) Italian wine lovers know well that barbera is one of the world's most underrated red grapes, and l'Avvocata proves it here with its penetrating, intense flavors - far beyond what you would expect at the price. It offers a pure blast of black-cherry fruit, seasoned with a light touch of oak, and hints of herbs and spices. Typical of barbera, it finishes with more acidity than most red wines, but that is a plus when you match it with pasta in a tomato sauce. Bravo, Coppo! (Imported by Winebow)

- Michael Dresser

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