Wine of the week

WINE OF THE WEEK

August 24, 2005|By Michael Dresser

2004 Grgich Hills Fume Blanc, Napa Valley ($24). This is a little pricey for sauvignon blanc (the same thing as fume blanc), but the intensity, freshness and penetrating power are exceptional. There is an almost electric herbal flavor, with hints of lime and pear, and it finishes with plenty of racy acidity. This is a wine to wake up a tired, jaded palate, preferably in the company of grilled seafood.

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