Wine Of The Week

WINE OF THE WEEK

August 10, 2005|By Michael Dresser

2004 Rex Goliath "Free Range" Chardonnay ($10). California chardonnay is not my favorite category, but credit has to go to Hahn Estates for creating a value-priced wine of admirable quality. Chief among its virtues is that the winemaker has let the fruit speak for itself without a heavy-handed overlay of oak. The wine offers clean, crisp flavors of lemon, apple and pear - with a subtle infusion of vanilla. Nobody will mistake it for Batard-Montrachet, but its intensity, length and complexity are good for its price. Purists may object to the gaudy and gimmicky label, but it's what's in the bottle that counts.

- Michael Dresser

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