Wine of the week

WINE OF THE WEEK

July 06, 2005|By Michael Dresser

2004 Trefethen Dry Riesling, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley ($18). This magnificently structured riesling is consistently one of North America's best white-wine values. The vineyard is a splendid anomaly - like a patch of supercharged Alsace in a sea of Napa cabernet. Where most American producers smother the character of riesling in excess sugar, Trefethen lets its stony, complex mineral character shine through. There's plenty of flavor - pears, citrus fruit and even a hint of cherry - but none of the fruit-salad anarchy that can turn riesling into a cartoon. The Trefethens show that they truly respect riesling, and the grape repays them with a wine that would be superb with a wide variety of foods. If you love steak but red wine gives you a headache, try this matchup.

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