2004 Folie a Deux "Menage a Trois" California White Table Wine ($12). This blend of chardonnay, chenin blanc and moscato is not for people who want to pontificate over the complexities of deep, profound wine. It's just a fruity, lively, off-dry wine that makes for ideal springtime and summertime quaffing - preferably outdoors. It offers fresh flavors of peaches, honey, herbs, melon, cherries, hazelnut and sweet peas. Try it with spicy shrimp hot off the grill, or just use it as the wine with which to greet guests.
- Michael Dresser