No flash, but good fare at Towson Delly North


April 13, 2005|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

The Towson Delly North sits quietly in one of York Road's countless strip shopping areas, next to a small computer store.

Inside, there's nothing flashy. Instead you'll find gray linoleum floors, a handful of tables and some display and drink cases. There is absolutely nothing decorating the earth-tone walls, although a magazine rack heavy on Car and Driver, an Easter lily on the counter and some techno-cool, stainless-steel hanging light fixtures gave the room at least a hint of ambience.

Even so, some flashier carryouts could learn a thing or two from this boring deli in Lutherville. Service was polite and efficient, and the food, while far from exotic, was fresh and satisfying. Most surprisingly, the prices were reasonable - none of those $6.95 turkey sandwiches I seem to find everywhere.

Heck, the Delly even serves perfectly nice deviled eggs - two for a buck -which is hard to beat.

The menu won't surprise you. The usual deli sandwiches are supplemented by burgers, hot dogs and cheese steaks from the grill. (There's also a small breakfast menu served before 10:30 a.m.)

The chicken noodle soup ($2.50), obviously homemade, was thick with noodles, shreds of chicken, celery bits and big, tasty carrot slices. And the chili ($3.50) was even thicker - plenty of ground beef and red beans, with a hint of red pepper.

The menu said the cheeseburger was made with a third of a pound of ground sirloin, and I wouldn't doubt it. At $3.75, the price was right. Fries were $2 extra, but were fresh-cut and delicious.

A shrimp-salad sandwich ($7.50) was laced with a bunch of big shrimp - a winner. A pastrami sandwich ($4.75) lacked the zest of what one would get in a New York deli but was perfectly adequate.

And, finally the deviled eggs. For the record, a hint of paprika and delightfully unchallenging.

A handful of cakes and other desserts stood ready in a refrigerated case. We sampled a chocolate-cheesecake concoction ($2.50), which went down easily enough.

There's a parking lot out front, although getting in and out of York Road can be, um, stimulating.

Know of a good carryout that we should visit? Tell us about it. E-mail: carry

Towson Delly North

Food: ***

Service: ***

Waiting area: ***

Parking: **1/2

Where: 1711 York Road, Lutherville

Phone: 410-560-3399

Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday

Prices: Soup, sandwiches, salads, subs, burgers and hot dogs, $2.50 to $7.50. Breakfast fare, $1.50 to $3.75, served until 10:30 a.m.; credit cards accepted

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