Serafino's, which opened in 1996, has been a reliable choice for takeout pizza and other Italian dishes in Howard County. But with only 44 seats, the tiny restaurant on U.S. 40 didn't do much sit-down business.
Owner Joe Mannarelli finally bit the bullet last year and moved his restaurant to a much larger location. The new Serafino's, which opened in December in a former garage, now seats 220, and it has a bar, a banquet room and a cozy fireplace.
The menu has been expanded slightly, but the core offerings of brick-oven pizza, subs and pasta dishes remain. This is food with nearly universal appeal. It's comforting without being overly simple, filling without being heavy.
After a very pleasant lunch at Serafino's, my picky-eater kids both gave it a thumbs-up, and my husband suggested we take his parents there the next time they come to town.
The pizza, cooked in a wood-burning oven that can be seen from most tables, is reason enough to recommend Serafino's. The pies have a beautifully charred, almost crispy crust, and they're topped with a properly garlicky tomato sauce that has real zing.
Diners can choose their own toppings or opt for combos such as pizza Florentine with spinach and artichoke hearts or pizza con carne with salami, sausage and ham.
Sandwiches and subs make up a large part of the menu. We tried a cheese steak and had no complaints about the tender chopped sirloin topped with lettuce and tomato and stuffed into a chewy roll.
Serafino's also offers more elaborate entrees, and the kitchen handles them with confidence, serving expertly prepared meals that are reasonably priced and generously portioned.
Our meal got off on the right foot with rich, savory Italian wedding soup, studded with tiny meatballs and even tinier bits of pasta. We also liked the gently breaded rings and tendrils of our fried calamari but found its marinara dipping sauce to be overly sweet.
A chicken piccata entree started with two large boneless chicken breasts cooked so that the exterior was golden and crunchy and the interior still moist, then topped with a sprightly sauce of lemon, white wine and capers. Artichoke hearts and spaghetti rounded out the plate. The only thing odd about the dish was that the chicken was coated with a thin layer of mozzarella. I would have been happier without this variation from tradition.
A seafood pasta dish was more straightforward, nothing but plump shrimp, mussels and clams over a generous portion of pasta with marinara sauce. It was just right.
Maybe because it's so new, Serafino's hasn't developed much of a personality. Even with the fireplace, the interior lacks warmth. Tables and booths are arranged in a large, almost barren space with terrazzo floors and high ceilings. There are no paintings, no bright colors, no tablecloths to add cheer. Windows look out on a parking lot and the side of a building.
A deli counter and dessert counter also detract from the restaurant experience. They look like they belong in a supermarket or deli, not a sit-down restaurant.
A certain level of disorganization is also holding the place back. Service was friendly and generally attentive, but there were problems. When we arrived, several empty tables hadn't been cleaned, though that was quickly remedied.
After we ate, we weren't offered dessert, but my kids wanted to select a few cookies from the dense, buttery ones on display at the dessert counter. The staff seemed baffled by this request. Finally, we were told we could either pay for the cookies at the dessert counter, or tell our server to add them to our bill. We told our server to add the four cookies to our check, but she forgot and had to go back and re-tally. It was no big deal, just a reminder that Serafino's is still suffering from growing pains.
Serafino's
Where: 3419 Plum Tree Drive, Ellicott City
Call: 410-465-7775
Open: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, bar open to 2 a.m. daily
Credit cards: All major
Prices: Appetizers $3.50-$9.95, entrees $5.50-$18.95
Food: ***
Service ***
Atmosphere: **1/2
