R.L. Buller & Son Premium Fine Muscat, Victoria ($14, 375 milliliters). My apologies in advance to those who can't find this luscious fortified Australian dessert wine. Only the top wine stores are likely to get an allocation. But those who do locate a bottle will taste an incredible bargain - a wine that exceeds the complexity and richness of some of the world's most famous nectars. It offers intense flavors of orange, honey, caramel, lemons, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Its smoothness is off the charts. Serve it with roasted nuts or baked apple, or just enjoy it by itself.
- Michael Dresser