Wine Of The Week

WINE OF THE WEEK

February 16, 2005|By Michael Dresser

2002 Gallo of Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($13). Gallo is a name long associated with the cheapest of the cheap, but it has been trying to move upscale for many years. This is the most convincing Gallo wine I have tasted to date, and for its price it's a steal. It's not a cuddly wine but it shows plenty of complexity. The tannins are quite firm, but the wine's not harsh or drying. With an hour's breathing, it opens up to show concentrated flavors of blackberry, black currant, game, chocolate and coffee. Few collectors would bother to cellar a midpriced Gallo wine for 10 years, but in this case it may be a wise move.

- Michael Dresser

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