Fells Point is getting a new upscale restaurant


Eats: dining reviews, Hot Stuff

February 10, 2005|By Sloane Brown | Sloane Brown,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

Fells Point is cookin'! Yet another upscale eatery, Timothy Dean Bistro, is opening its doors there tomorrow night.

Owners Rick Wallace and chef Timothy Dean bring with them a work history at a number of chi-chi D.C. establishments, including the Hays-Adam Hotel, the Watergate (with famed Washington chef Jean-Louis Palladin) and the St. Regis Hotel. Wallace says the two were looking for a location to open their own place, when their broker suggested Baltimore, specifically Fells Point. One look at the old Chester's Steakhouse space, he says, and they knew they'd found their new home.

Think "elegant casual," says Wallace, crediting interior designer Rita St. Clair. The dining room, which seats 70, has cognac brick and ivory walls, with sleek custom-made tables with a copper inlay. Recessed and cubist hanging fixtures give the room further warmth. The bar seats 25 and offers a granite bar, iridescent tile and deep burgundy walls.

As far as the menu goes, think new American bistro with a French undercurrent. There are appetizers like pan-seared diver scallops with smoked gouda risotto cakes and black truffle emulsion ($12), tempura calamari with fried parsley and house-made garlic aioli ($9) and potato gnocchi with prosciutto and caramelized Vidalia onions ($13). Entrees include grilled ahi tuna with melted spinach, garlic comfit and essence of sweet balsamic ($23), grilled veal chop with fricassee of wild mushrooms and essence of foie gras ($26) and oven-roasted free-range chicken with amis Louis potato and garlic sprouts ($16).

Timothy Dean, 410-534-5650, is at 1717 Eastern Ave. Its hours are 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Brunch is served on the weekends from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. There is valet parking.

Chipotle in Hunt Valley

Meanwhile, another Chipotle Mexican Grill is opening tomorrow in the new Hunt Valley Towne Centre. This is the fifth Chipotle for the Greater Baltimore area. Like the others, you order your burrito and taco at the counter and have it made fast and fresh according to your specifications.

You'll find this Chipotle, 410-771-6025, at 112 Shawan Road, Suite 2. Its hours are 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily.

Baltimore Foodies

If you love eating out and would love to join others who do, too, check out www.baltfood ies.com. Every month, Foodies founder Lars Rusins sets up a group dinner at a local restaurant, with a pre-set tasting menu. You can sign up for the dinner and pay ahead online. That way there's no splitting the check at the end of dinner. The Baltimore-cum-Monkton resident says the price will generally range between $60 and $80 a person, with different prices for those who want cocktails or wine and those who don't. Rusins is keeping the numbers low, so that everyone can fit around one large table.

"I don't want to make this a bull roast," he says.

Rusins, who in real life is a manufacturing operations manager, says the whole thing evolved after he and a few friends started planning to go out and enjoy good food and wine one night a month. And more and more friends wanted to come along. "I don't think Baltimore restaurants get enough credit. There are some great places here, and great people run them."

This month's dinner at Pazo was a sellout. But there are still a few spaces left at the table for the March 10 get-together at the Bicycle.

Opening night

They rolled out the red carpet -- literally -- Saturday night for the gala opening of the Music Center at Strathmore. I like to think it was for all the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra supporters who made the trek to Montgomery County. And there were quite a few: Buddy and Ellen Zamoiski, Clair Zamoiski Segal and Tommy Segal, BSO board Chairman Phil English, BSO President/CEO Eliot Pfanstiehl, Jay and Stephanie Wilson, Terry Meyerhoff Rubenstein and Jimmy Rubenstein, Pat and John Gidwitz, Frank Rosenberg, B.J. and Bill Cowie, Lainy Lebow-Sachs and Leonard Sachs, Aris Melissaratos, Barbara and Tom Bozzuto, Wendy and Howard Jachman, Margaret and Michael Preston, Lindy Small, Lee Kappelman and John Rybock, and Rheda Becker. That's just to name a few spotted mingling with all the D.C.-types for cocktails and dinner.

Obviously, music was the evening's theme, from start to finish. Dinner before the BSO concert included a chocolate flourless cake in the shape of a tiny piano. And as guests left, each was given a commemorative music box.

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