Cheers to a fine corner bar in Remington

TAKEOUT

It's inexpensive, newcomer-friendly

October 27, 2004|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

A large satellite dish and an inflated Ravens player share the roof of Dizzy Issie's, a Remington corner bar and restaurant that has a knack for catering to everyone from barflies to families with young kids.

On a recent Monday night, baseball fans watching the playoffs filled the bar, a harvest of pumpkin lanterns dangled from the ceiling and a sinister spider web covered the fireplace and the beer sign above.

Lavish-looking cakes and puddings revolved in a well-lit dessert case. Inexpensive and newcomer-friendly, Dizzy Issie's, we decided, is a fine specimen of the Cheers-style corner-bar species.

We stuck to the handwritten specials rather than the more generic menu with its predictable carryout fare. A bowl of "Oriental chicken noodle soup" ($4.95) was thick with water chestnuts, baby corn and mushrooms as well as noodles and lumps of chicken. Its spicy flavor was a pleasant departure from the more traditional and blander version you might expect in a bar.

Chicken marsala over pasta ($10.95) was rich, tender and studded with plump little mushrooms. The pasta, even after a car ride, was just chewy enough. The dish came a la carte with no bread or sides.

An Island Jerk Bacon Burger with pepper jack cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo on a sesame-studded roll ($4.95) came medium-well as ordered, was juicy and had a satisfying Caribbean bite. Chips came with the burger and the rest of our orders.

We are always a little wary about ordering fish to go for fear that the fish will turn mushy on the way home, but the blackened rockfish sandwich ($7.95) kept its texture inside and out. A peppery kick left us nostalgic for the days when everything came blackened. (The '80s, or was it the '90s? Who can remember?)

The pit-ham melted-cheese sandwich ($4.95), also on a roll, had a nice, smoky taste. The ham itself was thinly sliced and Swiss cheese oozed decadently over the works.

While they certainly looked awesome, the desserts we ordered were both disappointing. A slice of caramel apple ($3.50) cake offered fresh fruit, but little else. The plain cheesecake $3.50) was straightforward and serviceable, at best.

Dizzy Issie's

Food: ***

Service: ***

Waiting area: ***

Parking: **1/2

Where: 300 W. 30th St., Remington

Phone: 410-235-0171

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily

Prices: Burgers, sandwiches, wraps, soups, seafood, pork chops, $3.95 to $24.95; credit cards accepted

Outstanding: ****; Good: ***; Fair or uneven: **; Poor: *

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