2002 Concannon Petite Sirah, Central Coast, Selected Vineyards ($12). The ripe, robust red wine from the underappreciated petite syrah grape offers outstanding value. Petite syrah can have rough edges, but this wine is smooth and balanced. It offers lush blackberry and black-currant flavors with overtones of smoked meat. It's a big wine that deserves to be paired with substantial red meat and pasta dishes but it's not one of those alcoholic monsters that defies food pairings.
- Michael Dresser