Wine of the week

2003 The Little Penguin Merlot, Southeastern Australia ($7). Yes, the name's too cute (though the little penguin is an actual species), but this merlot is one heck of a value. It's not complex or huge, just bursting with straightforward and ripe black-cherry fruit. Its texture is pleasingly soft - giving it a clear distinction from the same winery's less successful cabernet sauvignon. This wine can be served with red meat or roasted or grilled poultry, but it seems best suited for casual fare such as hamburgers.