Seafood carryout's tasty fare


Orange roughy, crab sandwich are both winners from Captain Jerry's

August 11, 2004|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

Captain Jerry's Seafood isn't much to look at. A modest storefront squeezed in next to a pizza joint in a tiny shopping center in Perry Hall, Captain Jerry's is the kind of place you might think twice about before venturing into it for seafood.

However, on a recent visit, we were generally pleased with this no-nonsense, reasonably priced carryout.

Captain Jerry's sells plenty of steamed and live crabs, but we decided to stick to the fairly extensive menu of other seafood items. (By the way, everything on the menu is seafood, except for a few side orders.)

For an appetizer, we tried the coddies (95 cents each), little hockey puck-sized slabs of fish and potatoes that were deep-fried and served with crackers and mustard. While the coddies were essentially flavorless, they weren't objectionable.

Orange roughy ($5.50) came battered and fried. The good-sized portion of fish was tasty and seemed quite fresh, plus we liked having a piece of lemon included with the fish. The steamed shrimp ($9.99 per pound for mediums) were delicious - meaty and drenched in the usual salt-and-hot-pepper spice.

A soft-crab sandwich ($6.99) featured not one but two crabs, their legs tucked neatly under their bodies, like an origami creation. With a little cocktail sauce splashed on, the sandwich was a winner. The lump crab-cake sandwich ($9.50) was a bit heavy on the breading, but was broiled to a nice dark-brown color and we found good-sized chunks of tasty crabmeat.

The only real clunker was the fried shrimp ($4.25). We opened the Styrofoam box to discover exactly one not-so-good fried shrimp and a container of cocktail sauce. Hmmm.

As for the sides, the onion rings ($2.25) weren't worth the bother, but the enormous serving of french fries ($1.75) came in a paper bag and were just fine.

The only dessert in the case was a forlorn-looking piece of cheesecake ($1.75). With a graham-cracker crust and decent filling, it was a surprisingly good way to end things.

Captain Jerry's Seafood

Food: ** 1/2

Service: ***

Waiting area: **

Parking: ** 1/2

Where: 8841-B Belair Road, Perry Hall

Phone: 410-529-9061

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Prices: Seafood soups, sandwiches, appetizers and platters from 95 cents to $12.95; steamed crabs, market-priced; credit cards accepted

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