2003 Estancia Estates Pinot Grigio ($16). This medium- to full-bodied white wine from California provides an exciting alternative to oaky chardonnays. It offers vibrant flavors of pears, sweet peas, apples, nuts, lemons and tangerines. It finishes long and strong, with refreshing acidity and more complexity than most pinot grigios. This would be excellent with any salmon dish or grilled seafood.

