June 10, 2004|By Natasha Lesser | Natasha Lesser,SPECIAL TO THE SUN
If you want the hipness of SoHo without the three-hour drive or the hassles of New York, check out Philadelphia's Old City neighborhood. Just 90 minutes away, Old City is a lively place full of galleries, shops, restaurants, bars, cafes and loft apartments. In a way, Old City is actually more hip than SoHo, which is now overrun with chains like J. Crew and Banana Republic.
The first wave of artists started moving into the area's old warehouses in the late-'70s, when space was cheap and available. The population of loft dwellers grew throughout the '80s -- and many more galleries followed. Over the past five years, the area has seen an influx of chic shops, bars, cafes and restaurants.
But Old City was a destination long before that. Past residents of the neighborhood included Benjamin Franklin and Betsy Ross; their homes (or what is left of them) are now museums. In Franklin's and Ross' day, Old City was the commercial and residential heart of Philadelphia. Back then, people lived in the tiny houses on the narrow cobblestone side streets -- as they do today. Elfreth's Alley is billed as the "the nation's oldest continuously inhabited street"; two houses here are open for viewing.
Galleries in the neighborhood offer a range of art from representational to cutting-edge contemporary, ceramics to conceptual. Most galleries occupy great spaces -- expansive old storefronts with high ceilings, white walls and wood floors. Hours are generally Wednesday through Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. On First Friday -- the first Friday of every month -- galleries stay open until 9 p.m. and serve refreshments. And on the first Saturday of every month, galleries sponsor artist talks; reservations are required (check out www.oldcityarts.org).
Between gallery stops, you can shop at small, independent boutiques. Clothing stores in the area favor a mix of stylish new and vintage clothing. Vagabond Boutique and Yarn Shop and ME and Blue are must-stops for fashionistas. The neighborhood is also a hot spot for top-notch 20th-century antiques and contemporary furnishings. Most shops are closed Monday and Tuesday.
Galleries
Artists' House Gallery (57 N. Second St., 215-923-8440): The gallery's emphasis is representational works.
ArtJaz Gallery (53 N. Second St., 215-922-4800): The focus here is contemporary, abstract and figurative work by artists of color.
The Clay Studio (139 N. Second St., 215-925-3453): Fine ceramic arts are on display and for sale at this long-established gallery.
Larry Becker (43 N. Second St., 215-925-5389): One of the oldest galleries in the area, its emphasis is abstract, minimalist and conceptual art. It's open Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
Nexus Foundation for Today's Art (137 N. Second St., 215-629-1103): In the area for more than 25 years, Nexus puts on cutting-edge shows of contemporary art.
3rd Street Gallery (58 N. Second St., 215-625-0993): Now on Second Street, this gallery is an artists' cooperative representing a diverse group of contemporary artists.
Museums
Betsy Ross House (239 Arch St., 215-686-1252): Betsy Ross lived and worked in this 1740 home, and she is buried beneath the trees in the courtyard.
Elfreth's Alley Museum (126 Elfreth's Alley, 215-574-0560): People have lived on this street for more than 300 years; the museum occupies two adjacent houses, built in 1755.
Franklin Court (318 Market St., 215-597-8974): In a quiet courtyard off Market Street is a steel frame structure in the spot where Benjamin Franklin's house once stood; underground is a museum dedicated to Franklin's life and inventions.
Where to shop
Big Jar Books (55 N. Second St., 215-574-1650): This used bookstore and cafe has an excellent selection -- from literature and history to art and architecture -- and good coffee.
Foster's Urban Homeware (124 N. Third St., 267-671-0588): Functionality meets design at this funky housewares shop.
ME and Blue (311 Market St., second floor, 215-629-2347): Come here for new clothing from indie designers and vintage finds.
Mode Moderne (159 N. Third St., 215-627-0299): Mid-century modern and other 20th-century finds predominate at this swank furniture shop.
Vagabond Boutique and Yarn Shop (37 N. Third St, 267-671-0737): This store has an inspiring mix of hip new and vintage clothing -- as well as yarn.
Viv Pickle (210 N. Third St, 215-922-5904): Pick a handbag style and pick the fabric, and the folks at Viv Pickle will make you a custom bag.
Where to eat
Campo's (214 Market St., 215-923-1000): Stop in for cheesesteaks, hoagies or Italian fare at this casual spot.
Continental Restaurant & Martini Bar (138 Market St., 215-923-6069): This hip diner serves "global tapas" and martinis.
Cuba Libre (10 S. Second St., 215-627-0666): Resembling a 1940s Havana street scene, this restaurant and bar has fine Cuban fare.
Fork (306 Market St., 215-625-9425): Creative American cuisine in a stylish and comfortable setting.
Metropolitan Bakery (126 Market St., 215-928-9528): You might just want a whole loaf with your coffee at this bakery-cafe.
Old City Coffee (221 Church St., 215-629-9292): Sit inside this cozy cafe or outside at the small tables and enjoy the calm of one of the Old City's cobblestone side streets.
Getting there
From Baltimore, take Interstate 95 north to the I-676 exit/Exit 22 (on the left) toward Central Philadelphia/Independence Hall/Callowhill Street. Take the Callowhill Street exit; stay straight. Turn left on Fourth Street, then left on Race Street, then right on Second Street. You may be able to find metered parking on the street, though the meters are only good for one or two hours.
More information
Visit www.oldcity.org.
For more regional trips, see Page 37.
