2003 Chaddsford Spring Wine, Pennsylvania White Wine ($10.79). My tasting companion said it best: "It tastes like spring. It's happy wine." That might not be a description that appeals to snobs, but it's dead-on accurate. The deeper we get into summer, the more desirable that touch of spring will become. It's a very floral white, lightly sweet but dry enough to serve with spicy foods such as Thai or Szechuan cuisine. Even more, it's a wine to drink by the pool or on the deck on a warm evening for the sheer fun of it. The blend of vignoles, seyval and vidal is simply loaded with intense flavors of apricot, pear, orange, cherry, honey and herbs. Its racy acidity keeps it from being cloying. It should be consumed before Labor Day.