Terrific pizza from the Pizzas at Angelo's

TAKEOUT

Takeout

May 05, 2004|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

Brothers Angelo and Tommy Pizza are the third generation of an aptly named family to operate a Baltimore restaurant.

Their predecessors operated Pizza's Restaurant, first in Little Italy and then on Liberty Heights Avenue.

Today, the brothers' modest but thriving restaurant, Angelo's, is a Hampden institution serving terrific pizza and the usual assortment of subs, burgers and pasta.

Angelo's is not much to behold. Out front, a few tables sit on a deck overlooking a gas station and a busy stretch of Keswick Road. Inside the low-slung space are three video games (for amusement only) and a bulletin board filled with cards from local business people (everyone from chiropractors to dog-walkers).

On the walls are keepsakes from the Pizza family, among them Christmas cards from the Art Donovan family, including one featuring a photo of Kojak himself, Telly Savalas.

On a recent visit, Angelo's hardworking staff seemed unperturbed by a rash of large orders, and the workers had our food ready in no time.

Everything was competent and the pizza was several notches above average. A 16-inch pizza ($9.70 with one topping) had a delicious thin crust, just the right amount of cheese and a nice tomato sauce, as well as moderately spicy sliced sausage. Angelo's also sells whopping big slices and a 30-inch party pizza that costs about $30.

A steak sub ($3.95) - shaved meat on a fresh roll - was also a winner, although we regretted not ordering fried onions to jazz it up. Spaghetti with chicken parmesan ($6.95) came with overcooked pasta that was redeemed slightly by a hearty sauce and excellent garlic bread, made with actual sliced garlic, not the powder favored by so many carryouts. The chicken itself was fried and covered with melted mozzarella.

A chicken-salad sandwich ($4.45) featured big chunks of breast meat in a mayonnaise dressing, which was a little on the bland side. Chicken wings ($4.25) were overcooked.

The only dessert was a cannoli ($2.35), which was sweet and good. Parking is on-street, but not too hard to find nearby.

Angelo's

Food: ** 1/2

Service: *** 1/2

Waiting area: **

Parking: ** 1/2

Where: 3600 Keswick Road, Hampden

Phone: 410-235-2595

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday

Prices: Pizza, subs, sandwiches and pasta from $1.75 to $15.70; credit cards accepted

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