Wine of the week

WINE OF THE WEEK

April 28, 2004|By Michael Dresser

2003 Yalumba Viognier, South Australia, "Y Series" ($10). Viognier is a wonderful white-wine varietal from the Rhone Valley, but it's easy to get wrong. Yalumba has not only gotten it dead-on right but has done so at a fabulous price. This medium-bodied wine is fully dry but its lively fruitiness keeps it from being severe. It offers a rich blend of tropical-fruit, melon, peach, pear, litchi-nut, coconut and spice flavors. Most important, it isn't too heavy or alcoholic and should match up well with salmon or any other substantial fish.

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