Promising new eatery offers Indian cuisine

TAKEOUT

American-style food also available at Yeti, on York Road

Takeout

April 21, 2004|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

The yeti has been sighted - and on York Road, no less.

The Nepali version of the abominable snowman is now lending his name to a new, unassuming but promising carryout restaurant just south of Northern Parkway.

Yeti has been open a couple of months, replacing a Mediterranean restaurant. Its menu bridges the gap between your basic American carryout fare - pizzas, subs and sandwiches - and Indian cuisine. (The owners of Yeti are Nepali, but they characterize that portion of their menu as Indian.)

Yeti has precious little ambience -- a few tables, a lonely tambourine on the wall and fake flowers. But the service was friendly and efficient, and the food was quite good.

First, the vegetable samosas ($2.25) were flaky and fried just right, stuffed with potatoes and peas. Dipped in raita and other accompanying sauces, the samosas started us off on the right note.

We also loved the chicken jalfreeji ($10), a large serving of boneless chicken in a spicy sauce of tomatoes, onions and pepper - served over basmati rice. I requested the dish be prepared medium-hot ("medium hot - American," I added), and it came with a good shot of peppery life. So did the baigan varta ($8.40), a hearty serving of finely chopped roasted eggplant, and other vegetables simmered with spices. It, too, was served over rice.

The lamb biryani ($12.40) featured pieces of meat in rice, flavored with slivered almonds, raisins, onions and spices. The dish, while flavorful, was a bit dry.

We also dipped into the American offerings. A small cheese pizza ($7.50) provided no surprises, good or bad. Chicken fingers ($5.99) came with fries and garlic bread, and were meaty and just fine.

Yeti offers a handful of desserts. Only the rice pudding ($2.50) is made in-house, so we tried that. Unfortunately, it was thin and lacked that soothing something that you need in rice pudding.

The menu prices are not particularly low, so be sure to check out Yeti's many specials. Parking can be a challenge on the busy stretch of York Road, but Yeti does deliver in the area.

Yeti

Food: ***

Service: *** 1/2

Waiting area: **

Parking: **

Where: 5926 York Road, North Baltimore

Phone: 410-464-9600

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

Prices: Indian chicken, lamb, shrimp and vegetarian entrees, from $5.99 to $11.90; pizza, subs, salads, pasta and burgers, $2 to $16.99; credit cards accepted

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