Some sandwiches are standouts at the Moonpenny Cafe

TAKEOUT

Takeout

February 25, 2004|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

Big Sky Bread has been a lovely - and quite aromatic - fixture on Cold Spring Lane in Roland Park for years, turning out a good selection of breads.

Lately, Big Sky has branched out with the Moonpenny Cafe, an inviting spot offering soups, sandwiches and a host of desserts for both sit-down eaters and carryout patrons.

The front part of the bakery has been turned into an industrial-chic eatery, with lots of metal and cool colors, as well as homey touches, such as fresh flowers on the tables and a shelf of children's books for the preschool kids who come in with Mom or Dad for coffee or lunch.

The Moonpenny has a modest selection of about 10 sandwiches and a couple of freshly made soups. The menu notes that the cafe uses, when possible, organic produce, antibiotic-free meats and free-range chicken.

We started with two soups. Wild mushroom ($3.95) had pureed mushrooms and onions in a thin broth. Chicken lentil ($3.95) included large shreds of chicken and plenty of lentils. Both were good, if not exceptional.

Of our five sandwiches, three stood out.

The Hampden Commuter ($4.95) was a find - a thick slice of delicious meatloaf with ketchup, lettuce, tomato and sauteed onions, all on buttery toasted sourdough bread. The PLT ($4.95) - pancetta, lettuce and tomato - came with slices of avocado, which nicely offset the salty Italian bacon. And the Bouch's chicken salad ($5.25) offered a good amount of meat in a mayonnaise dressing.

Overall, the sandwiches were definitely above-average - thanks in large part to the excellent bread - although some could have used more imaginative seasonings.

Moonpenny's big display case was filled with sweet stuff for dessert. The brownie ($1.50) was enormous and gooey but had precious little chocolate flavor. A large gingersnap ($1.25), though, was just right.

Big Sky has a couple of parking spots reserved in a lot behind the building, although they are often filled. In any case, there's plenty of on-street parking, either on Cold Spring Lane or a side street.

Moonpenny Cafe at Big Sky Bread

Food: ***

Service: *** 1/2

Waiting area: ***

Parking: ** 1/2

Where: 509 W. Cold Spring Lane, Roland Park

Phone: 410-662-6070

Hours: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Soups and sandwiches from $3.95 to $5.95; credit cards accepted

Outstanding: ****; Good: ***; Fair or uneven: **; Poor: *

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