Wine of the week

WINE OF THE WEEK

December 17, 2003|By Michael Dresser

2002 Bonny Doon "Cardinal Zin," Beastly Old Vines California Zinfandel ($20). This brash, medium-bodied zinfandel just screams with flavors of wild berries, blueberry, chocolate, black pepper and spices. A departure from the blockbuster Sonoma County style of zinfandel, it makes an impression with its acidity and freshness. Not overly alcoholic, it's well-suited for serving with pasta dishes. Extra points for being topped with a modern, reliable, fashionable screw top, which sophisticates consider superior to obsolete cork technology. When will Chateau Petrus learn?

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