It's beef and pigskin at Steakhouse & Sports Theatre


Eats: dining reviews, Table Talk

November 20, 2003|By Sloane Brown | Sloane Brown,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

As you start getting into the Thanksgiving mind set -- with visions of all those things you've gotta cook next week -- the idea of not cooking anything else may sound mighty appealing. If watching a game or two also appeals, you may want to check out a brand new sports-themed steakhouse that's opening in Edgewater Tuesday.

The Original Steakhouse & Sports Theatre is one of the first anchor businesses at the new Main Street at South River Colony. It's the fifth eatery in the chain and the first in Maryland. The others are in Florida and North Carolina. Think seating for 200 -- including in the bar area -- with brick, hardwood and sports-artifact decor. And 25 TVs -- nine of them 6-foot-by-8-foot big screens.

Food-wise, we're going Main Street here, too, so to speak. First, you've got steaks. Sirloin ($12.95), New York strip ($16.50), filet mignon ($17.95), just to name a few. Entrees also include baby back ribs ($16.95 full rack, $12.25 half rack), half a rotisserie chicken ($11.45), grilled shrimp ($13.25) and mesquite grilled chicken over linguine with mushrooms, broccoli and Alfredo glaze ($12.25). There is also classic pub fare like burgers ($6.25-$6.95), salads topped with steak, chicken or mahi-mahi ($9.50-$9.95), and appetizers including wings ($5.95) and barbecue potato skins ($7.95). Needless to say, the atmosphere is casual.

You'll find The Original Steakhouse & Sports Theatre, 410-956-0790, at 139 Mitchells Chance Road in Edgewater. Starting Tuesday, it will be open 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4 p.m.-midnight Friday, noon-midnight Saturday, and noon-11 p.m. Sunday.

An updated Hombre

There have been a few renovations at Roland Park's Loco Hombre. Not to the restaurant itself, but to the menu -- courtesy of Loco Hombre's new chef, Michael Chmar, formerly of DC's Red Sage Restaurant. Chmar has done an almost complete overhaul of the 9-year-old menu. The only things that are the same, we're told, are the fajitas, enchiladas and burritos.

The menu starts with tapas (doesn't anyone want to use the word "appetizer" any more?). There you'll find items like quesadillas made with sauteed cremini mushrooms, dried tomato, spinach and blue cheese in house-made corn tortillas ($7), sweet corn tamale with grilled vegetable relish, red pepper and basil oils ($7), and crab and corn flautas with asadero cheese, Cuban-style black bean mash and corn sauce ($9). There's also a "flight" of three different ceviches, tuna, salmon and shrimp ($9). A couple of soups, a couple of salads, then the entree list. How about cornmeal-fried trout with spicy tomato salsa, mixed vegetable couscous salad and wilted arugula ($18), or pan-seared chicken breast with charred tomato mole, roast garlic-buttermilk mashed potatoes and creamy chile pepper-onion relish ($18)? There's a grilled pork chop with achiote-red pepper sauce, chayote-corn relish and a crispy white sweet potato cake ($21) and a grilled beef tenderloin with wild mushroom-sour cream enchiladas, red wine-basil sauce and seared spinach ($26).

Desserts also contain a few creative twists, like the grilled angel food cake, stuffed with macerated berries and topped with house-made frozen yogurt ($7), banana and peanut butter custards, served over chocolate poundcake with caramelized bananas and chocolate sauce ($7), and a dessert tamale, described as a Mexican version of sweet potato pie, served with cinnamon sauce and grilled pineapple relish ($7).

Chef Chmar has redone the lunch and Saturday and Sunday brunch menus, as well.

Loco Hombre, 410-889-2233, is at 413 W. Cold Spring Lane. Its hours are 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. Brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekends.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions by fax to Sloane Brown, 410-675-3451, or by e-mail to

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