2002 Binyamina White Sweet Muscat Wine, Samaria ($12, 500 milliliters). Think a sweet kosher wine isn't for serious connoisseurs? Think again. This dessert wine from Israel has a lot more in common with a fine Sauternes than it does with Mogen David. It's a lushly sweet wine that combines intense and complex flavors of orange, spices, peaches, honey and caramel. Its quality is comparable with such fine muscats as those from Beaumes-de-Venise in the Rhone Valley. Wines like these need to be drunk young. It'll keep until Passover, but there's no point in keeping it much longer.