Wine of the week

2002 Trenel Fils Macon-Villages ($16). Tasters whose palates have been numbed by oaky California chardonnays might miss the subtle, elegant charms of this well-priced white Burgundy. There's a pleasant hint of apple -- not the green-apple flavor you so commonly find in chardonnay, but good red apple fresh off the tree. Other nuances include lemon, vanilla, nuts and minerals. Though this wine's not a heavyweight, it delivers these flavors with admirable intensity and length. This is very much a chef's wine -- crafted to complement food instead of competing with it. It would be best with seafood, particularly salmon or swordfish.