Wine of the week

WINE OF THE WEEK

October 08, 2003|By Michael Dresser | Michael Dresser,SUN STAFF

2002 Antinori Vermentino di Bolgheri ($20). Vermentino, a white-grape variety that hails from the Italian island of Sardinia, is hardly a household word. Devotees of crisp, complex white wines ought to get acquainted with it because more and more examples are popping up in the U.S. market. This version is grown on the mainland, but it holds its own with its Sardinian cousins. A bone-dry wine, it has a great mineral bite and nuances of herbs, pears, apples and nuts. It's neither as herbal as sauvignon blanc nor as neutral as pinot grigio. There's an appealing hint of mint that gives it a fresh feel on the palate. It would be ideal to serve with shellfish.

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