Twelve years ago, we were in a small Tuscan village having dinner with our Italian friends when for dessert they served fresh pears and some sort of a super-creamy, ultra-smooth cheese.
It looked a little like cream cheese, but had none of the tart flavor or firm texture of cream cheese. This cheese was naturally sweet and was like nothing I had ever tasted before. It was mascarpone.
I returned home eager to buy some, but found out it was not exactly a supermarket staple. In fact, it was not available to me at all. But, fast-forward to the present and there is good news.
Our markets have gone global, and mascarpone shows up in almost every supermarket dairy case. The most common containers hold 8 ounces or one cup of mascarpone. Whether the dish is savory or sweet, mascarpone is ready to play its part in a supporting role.
Mascarpone (pronounced mas-cahr-POHN-ay) is a specialty of the Lombardy region of Italy. This fresh cheese made from cow's milk has a high butterfat content, often 75 percent or higher. With this high butterfat content, it is no surprise that the result is exceptionally soft, smooth and creamy.
According to Steve Jenkins in his book Cheese Primer, the name probably originates from the Italian verb mascherare, meaning to dress up or camouflage. And mascarpone certainly has that quality of enriching and enhancing whatever dish it goes into. What else could you expect from such a rich concoction?
Check the date on the package when buying mascarpone and choose one that is dated at least a week ahead, longer if possible. I find that the package dates in the same dairy case can vary by a month.
Store the cheese in the refrigerator and be sure to use it within a couple of days after it is opened. Mascarpone should have a sweet smell and taste when opened, and there should be no sign of mold.
The mild flavor of mascarpone blends easily with sweet or savory dishes. The classic savory use is as a torta di mascarpone. This Italian version of a savory cheesecake is usually served as an appetizer accompanied by crisp bread slices or crackers.
A classic torta combination is a simple layering of gorgonzola dolce (sweet gorgonzola) and mascarpone. Fresh herbs, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, spinach, smoked salmon, proscuitto, mild cheeses, Parmigiano-Reggiano and sweet peppers are other flavoring options often used with mascarpone to make the layers. It is usually best to use no more than three flavor choices for the torta layers. Think about using some contrasting colors.
