Special occasion
Aldo's, 306 S. High St., 410-727-0700, entrees: $18-$45
* Veal is a specialty at this very pretty restaurant. You can reserve a private table for four in the wine cellar.
* Signature dish: tournedos Rossini, filet with foie gras and black truffle-porcini mushroom sauce
Boccaccio, 925 Eastern Ave., 410-234-1322, entrees: $18-$27
* Known for its seasonal menu of northern Italian dishes. Fine dining in a quiet atmosphere.
* Signature dish: this time of year, soft shell crabs in a lemon-butter white-wine sauce
Da Mimmo, 217 S. High St., 410-727-6876, entrees: $19-$40
* Cuisine of every region, but particularly the south. A limo will pick you up if you live in the city.
* Signature dish: veal chop Florentine style with garlic, olive oil and rosemary
Rocco's Capriccio, 846 Fawn St., 410-685-2710, entrees: $15.95-$32.50
* Northern Italian dishes and Mediterran-ean seafood. Flambeed dishes like steak Diane and cherries jubilee are a specialty.
* Signature dish: grilled veal tenderloin with shiitake mushroom sauce
Family outing
Amicci's, 231 S. High St., 410-528-1096, entrees: $10.90-$15.90
* This very casual spot has mostly pasta dishes -- except for the signature dish. Great for kids.
* Signature dish: pane rotondo, toasted Italian bread with six jumbo shrimp and scampi sauce
Cafe di Roma, 413 S. High St., 410-685-1151, entrees: $11-$25
* The gelateria now has a dining room upstairs serving moderately priced, traditional Italian food.
* Signature dish: 36 different flavors of gelato
Vaccaro's, 222 Albemarle St., 410-685-4905
* Little Italy's famous pastry shop supplies restaurants around the city with cannoli and other goodies.
* Signature dish: cannoli, of course
Baltimore institutions
Chiapparelli's, 237 S. High St., 410-837-0309, entrees: $13-$28
* Italian comfort food like Mama Chiapparelli's ravioli and motherly waitresses.
* Signature dish: the famous chopped salad
Sabatino's, 901 Fawn St., 410-727-9414, entrees: $9-$29
* A huge restaurant with inviting small dining rooms. Keep an eye out for politicians and local celebrities.
* Signature dish: pan-fried shrimp parmigiana
Velleggia's, 829 E. Pratt St., 410-685-2620, entrees: $11.95-$21.95
* Excellent homemade pasta, warm-hearted service, and moderate prices.
* Signature dish: Velleggia's Pasta Trio, lasagna, manicotti and stuffed shells
A taste of home
Caesar's Den, 223 S. High St., 410-547-0820, entrees: $12.50-$31
* Casual family atmosphere, mostly south-ern Italian cooking. All Italian wine list.
* Signature dish: grilled tuna with tomatoes and capers in balsamic vinegar and olive oil
Ciao Bella, 236 S. High St., 410-685-7733, entrees: $13-$30
* A little bit of both: family-oriented but still a white-tablecloth restaurant. Lots of Italian classics.
* Signature dish: Veal Chesapeake with crabmeat tossed in a seafood cream sauce
Germano's, 300 S. High St., 410-752-4515, entrees: $12.50-$26
* True regional cuisine. (The region is Tuscany.) Lots of red sauces with a bit more kick than usual.
* Signature dish: osso buco, braised veal shanks
La Scala, 1012 Eastern Ave., 410-783-9209, entrees: $13.95-$29.95
* Dishes from Sicily, especially fresh seafood. Think of it as the chef-owner's dining room.
* Signature dish: grilled Caesar salad
Al fresco dining
Dalesio's, 829 Eastern Ave., 410-539-1965, entrees: $14-$25
* A small, intimate restaurant with a balcony that seats 20. Northern Italian and spa cuisine.
* Signature dish: duck ravioli with sun-dried tomatoes and brown butter sauce
Luigi Petti, 1002 Eastern Ave., 410-685-0055, entrees: $12.95-$27.95
* Traditional southern dishes. Three plant-filled decks that seat 150 diners.
* Signature dish: lobster fra diavolo
In a class of their own
Della Notte, 801 Eastern Ave., 410-837-5500, entrees: $12-$36
* A large menu and more than 700 wines. An imposing Mediterranean villa decor and, more important, a free parking lot in back.
* Signature dish: frutti di mare, seafood in marinara over linguine
La Tavola, 248 Albemarle St., 410-685-1859, entrees: $14-$24
* The chef is from Venice, the menu is classic Italian while the specials are more sophisticated.
* Signature dish: zuppa di pesce, an Italian fish stew
Off the beaten track
India Rasoi, 411 S. High St., 410-385-4900, entrees: $9-$17
* Northern Indian food -- no, that's not a misprint -- including tandoori dishes, curries and vegetarian meals.
* Signature dish: chicken tikka masala, a mild curry in a tomato-based sauce
Mo's Crab & Pasta Factory, 502 Albemarle St., 410-837-1600, entrees: $12-$35
* Casual seafood, homemade pastas, crab cakes, steamed crabs and some Italian dishes.
* Signature dish: garlic crab, a hard-shell steamed, cut in pieces and tossed in garlic sauce
Mo's Fisherman's Wharf, 219 S. President St., 410-837-8600, entrees: $19.95-$33.95
* The upscale, tuxedoed version of the other Mo's. Seafood, including 23 different fresh fish daily.
* Signature dish: crab cakes