SARS, the war in Iraq and worldwide terrorist threats are keeping some people from going abroad, but not Elliott Hester.
The longtime flight attendant and author of Plane Insanity: A Flight Attendant's Tales of Sex, Rage and Queasiness at 30,000 Feet embarked in October on an open-ended round-the-world adventure.
Starting from his home port in Miami, Hester moved west on a global route that allows for a "perpetual summer." Along the way, he is sending back "Continental Drifter" dispatches, which are being syndicated in newspapers and also are available on his Web site, www.elliotthester.com.
So far, his destinations have included Buenos Aires, French Polynesia, the Australian Outback, Singapore and India. The Sun caught up with Hester in Cairo.
You've been on the road for more than eight months. What's the most amazing site you have seen?
Without a doubt, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia, are the most amazing sights I've seen so far. In this small town, 10 churches were carved out of volcanic rock in the 13th century. To create the churches, craftsmen carved huge slices of rock out of a hillside (like cutting a piece of cake from the center) and then fashioned steps, windows, doors, and even scooped out the rock from inside to create an interior supported by columns. The churches are connected by a series of dark tunnels and courtyards. Magnificent!
You are trying to maintain a budget of $60 per day. Is that a realistic amount?
The $60 daily budget is working well. For instance, I stayed in a hotel in Aksum, Ethiopia, for $5 per day. In India I paid $15 for a two-week stay in Delhi. I splurged at a five-star hotel ($125 per night) in Brunei and again in Addis Ababa, but the few high prices were more than offset by the low prices. I'm right on target financially.
It seems that much of the world is less tolerant toward Americans. Have you seen or felt anti-American sentiment?
Yes. I was in Bali, Indonesia, the day the war began in Iraq. From that day forward, whenever I met locals or fellow travelers, there was often an anti-American comment or at least a pause when they learned I was from the States. One day, an Indonesian teen-ager thrust a newspaper in my face. It was a copy of the Jakarta Post. The paper was open to a page displaying horrible photos of bandaged Iraqi children with missing limbs. They had allegedly been injured by U.S. bombs. It was as if the Indonesian teen-ager was saying, "See what your country is doing!"
What is Bali like for tourists now, in the wake of the terrorist bombing?
This was my third visit to Bali. From what I've seen, tourists have always been treated well there. The bombers are allegedly connected with a terrorist organization. Because Bali is a predominantly Hindu island while the rest of Indonesia is mostly Muslim, the terrorists want to kill tourism there in order to promote their cause. Unfortunately, it worked. Five months after the bombing, at a time when Bali should have been overflowing with tourists, most hotels barely seemed to have a 20 percent occupancy rate.
Have you ever felt the need to lie about being an American because you felt unsafe? Do you know anyone who has done this?
No to both questions. However, while traveling through countries where known anti-American terrorist groups exist -- Egypt and India, for example -- I think it would be stupid to walk up and down the street waving the American flag.
As an American abroad, do you feel safe?
I'm in Cairo at the moment, and feel as safe here as anywhere on the planet. Ironically, the only place I've ever felt threatened is by street hoodlums at home in the United States.
How are you handling the wide variety of local foods?
While traveling in the developing world, I try to eat only cooked foods. No salads or fruits without thick skins -- bananas, oranges and melons are good. I eat lots of fried foods, which are usually considered unhealthy back home. Always drink bottled water; brush my teeth with it too.
What is it like being an airline passenger now after having worked for so long on the other side of the drink cart?
Well, I traveled quite often as a passenger while I was working as a flight attendant, so I'm acclimated to the "other side" of the aisle. Traveling on a full-fare ticket, however, instead of a standby employee pass, has quelled the butterflies that used to flutter in my stomach at the departure lounge. Airline employees fly for free, or at a substantial discount, depending on the airline, one's employment seniority and destination. Moments before a plane departs, we wait for our names to be called after all full-fare passengers have boarded. When all the seats are taken, employees are denied boarding. That's the price we pay for free travel.
You've been on a leave of absence during your trip. What do your colleagues say about flying these days?
