Basic carryout food at unassuming shop

TAKEOUT

Service is friendly at Little eatery

March 05, 2003|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

For some reason, I had never ventured into the Harry Little Carry Out Shop just south of Towson on York Road, despite driving by the place who knows how many times.

Well, the unassuming little Little's recently got a new sign with a cute, mustachioed chef, and that was good enough for me to finally try a place that has been operating since 1956.

Inside there's an open kitchen, a counter and not much else. I was touched to see two carefully taped-up death notices for two of the eatery's former employees, as well as the initials H-L, for Harry Little, inscribed on the enormous vent hood. In all, though, this is not a place to linger; this is a place where you call ahead, pick up a cheese steak, and get going again.

The food? Well, it's basic carryout grub -- pizza, a soup or two and a couple of spaghetti dishes -- and heavy on the grease. Harry Little also offers 39 different subs (including a fried haddock with cheese sub). We tried the Italian cold cut ($3.60), a perfectly acceptable stack of meat on an undistinguished roll.

The fried-oyster sub ($4.40 for a half) came with two gigantic, deep-fried oysters. (The large sub comes with four oysters.) French fries ($1.79) were plentiful but undercooked.

A medium pizza ($7.80) went down easily enough, but left no impression other than the fact it was coated in rim-to-rim sausage balls.

Our favorite dish was the spaghetti ($6.05), a huge serving featuring nicely seasoned meatballs and a side order of garlic bread. There are no desserts.

Service was friendly and efficient. Parking is on the street, on busy York Road or a side street.

Harry Little

Food: **

Service: ***

Waiting area: **

Parking: **

Where: 6811 York Road, North Baltimore

Phone: 410-377-9857

Hours: 10 a.m. to midnight Monday to Saturday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Pizza, $4.75 to $13.80; subs, $2.90 to $9.60; spaghetti, $5.40 to $6.45; no credit cards

Outstanding: ****

Good: ***

Fair or uneven:**

Poor: *

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