2001 Franciscan Oakville Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($17). This well-made chardonnay offers lively flavors of green apples, white pepper and lemons -- and even a suggestion of lime oil. In many ways, it's a standard California chardonnay but rendered with more vibrancy and finesse than is common for wines in this price class. The oak is well-integrated and not at all dominant. It should go well with most chicken, ham and salmon dishes.