2001 De Loach Estate Bottled Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($20). This full-bodied, intensely flavorful red wine shows the kind of character that only comes from old vines. It offers vivid blackberry, blueberry and black-pepper flavors, as well as a creamy texture on the palate. The abundant fruit artfully conceals the potent 15 percent alcohol level. This is a wine to enjoy on a cold night along with a hearty stew or pasta dish.