Taste of Mexico close to home


Burritos en Fuego has delicious food at reasonable prices

January 22, 2003|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

We may be confronting cold fronts right and left these days, but I've already got a plan for what to do on one pretty day this spring. We'll pick up some grub from Burritos en Fuego in Fells Point, find a bench out on the pier and watch the boats cruise by. Now that's my idea of city living.

Open less than six months, Burritos en Fuego is a wonderful new addition to Baltimore's carryout world, turning out fresh, delicious Mexican dishes quickly and at reasonable prices. Who could ask for anything more?

The small carryout faces the large square at the south end of Broadway, only a few paces from the water. Inside there are a few stools along the counter and at the window, and the requisite chile peppers dangling from the ceiling. Yellow walls and a few cactuses round out the look. Service was brisk and friendly.

The folks running the place have started simply -- their menu revolves around various combinations of rice, beans, spinach, chicken, chorizo and steak -- and it's paying off. Nothing we ate was particularly ambitious, but each dish was a complete success.

The good-sized spinach quesadilla ($5.25) was laced with cheese and piquant salsa (we specified medium hot, which it was), and managed to avoid being overly greasy, the usual fate of quesadillas.

We swooned over the chorizo taco salad ($6.25) -- a huge helping of spinach, lettuce, creamy guacamole, black beans, cheese and various colors of tortilla chips, with a huge tortilla underneath it all. The chorizo -- Spanish sausage -- was moderately spicy and flavorful.

The chicken burrito ($5.50) was also delectable. The chicken had been recently grilled and had a hint of lemon flavor. The burrito itself was enormous, and jammed with a filling mix of rice, beans and more of the spicy salsa.

The only dessert was a lovely brownie ($1.25), which was specked with chocolate chips.

We are talking Fells Point, so on-street parking is difficult. However, there are parking lots within easy walking distance.

Burritos en Fuego

Food: *** 1/2

Service: *** 1/2

Waiting area: ***

Parking: **

Where: 809 S. Broadway, Fells Point

Phone: 410-558-0858

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Burritos, quesadillas, tacos, salads and Mexican pizzas, $2 to $6.75; accepts credit cards

Outstanding: ****; Good: ***; Fair or uneven: **; Poor:*

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