2000 Il Circo Uva di Troia "La Violetta," Castel del Monte ($15). This colorfully labeled red wine from Southern Italy is made from the little-known Uva di Troia grape, grown in the off-the-beaten-track region of Castel del Monte. This version, part of the expanding worldwide empire of Bonny Doon's Randall Grahm, suggests this varietal deserves to be better known. It's an intensely spicy, aggressive wine with good concentration and appealing flavors of wild berries and herbs. It's a bit raw and brash now, but it should smooth out impressively with a year or two in the cellar. Serve with grilled red meats and hearty pasta dishes.