Plum Crazy

Shades of purple, smoky eyes and berry-stained lips make up this season's fashionable faces

Focus On Beauty Plum Crazy

September 22, 2002|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Sun Staff

At the fall runway shows, one beauty message was clear: Pretty is passe.

"Sexy and smoldering were a common thread in hair and makeup," says Kristin Perrotta, deputy editor and beauty director for Allure. "Not overly perfect. It looked like the women had snuck backstage and were rolling around with the male models. Lips looked like everyone had been kissing a little. Updos were haphazard."

Runway designers set the trends, and makeup companies are never far behind. Translation for women who wear makeup in the everyday world: Eyes and lips have high drama this fall.

Deep, vibrant colors are the newsmakers, and for the first time in several seasons, purple reigns. You'll find the regal shade in every category and every price range, from Maybelline's new Purplink Express Finish Nail Enamel to Yves Saint Laurent's Black Tulip, a plum stain for the lips.

The one caveat from the beauty experts: Don't overdo it.

"You can pick any feature you want to highlight," says J. D. McCully, color specialist for Sephora. "The others should be subdued."

If you like the trendy look of dramatic eyes, temper them with neutral lips. If juicy, berry-stained lipstick is more your style, put away the black eyeliner. You can create fall's smoky eye with understated color.

Here's what else the experts have to say about the season's newest looks.

Skin deep

Who wouldn't want dewy skin? Not you, not this season -- the only place with lots of shine is on the lips, says John Stapleton, senior artist for M.A.C. Think of it as a satin finish.

Matte skin is in.

Cheeks are downplayed with sheer blushes and translucent powders, say some beauty experts. Others like the look of pink on the apple of the cheek, as if the wearer had just come in from the cold. Blush shouldn't be used to contour.

Temptation eyes

Smoky eyes are back, with eyeliner looped around the eye and then smudged with a sponge. Beauty expert and author Bobbi Brown says she's putting a twist on this favorite by lining eyes in black-infused color.

If black is too harsh, create the effect with plum or aubergine. Lots of black, lash-thickening mascara top and bottom will also work. Colored mascara -- especially purple shades -- is effective, too.

Silver and other metallics are a second important look for eyes, especially as the holidays near. Gold eyeliner is particularly beautiful with black skin, says Perrotta. Iridescent eyes should be complemented by matte lips.

The manicured eyebrow seems very up to the minute this season, adds Stapleton.

Read my lips

Brett Freedman, celebrity makeup artist whose clients include Gwyneth Paltrow and Kirsten Dunst, likes darker lips this season, but in a sheer stain -- "a wash of plum" -- and translucent lip shines.

Lots of berries and burgundies are typical for fall, says Perrotta. "But this fall's lip colors are very juicy, very wet looking."

The newest lipsticks may have a bit of metallic shimmer, but nothing very obvious. On the runways, more color at the center of the lips helped create the sensual, just-been-kissed effect.

Nailed down

Nails are tailored and clean. Fall's deep, rich reds, purples and wines give nails a very glamorous and slightly goth feel, says Perrotta. Or go light with gold-infused pales: pinks and beiges that have a little sparkle.

"Nothing is heavy or Dragon-Ladyish," says makeup artist Brett Freedman.

So last season

* Neutral looks / playing it safe

* Dewy skin

* Turquoise eyeliner

* The unkempt brow

* Fuchsia

* Brown lipstick

* Lipliner

* Long nails with fall's dark colors

* Anything too glittery unless you're 12 years old

The must-haves

* "A big, thick eyeliner that will smudge easily" -- Kristin Perrotta, beauty director for Allure

* "Eye shadow in a plum tone and gold gloss to update a favorite lipstick" -- J.D. McCully, color specialist for Sephora

* "One of our new translucent foundations that give you radiance and cover flaws" -- Annette Falso, vice president of product development for Chanel

* " A great black mascara and a peachy-nude lip gloss like M.A.C.'s Entice" -- John Stapleton, senior artist for M.A.C.

* "Neutrogena's Glam, a pinky, sheer lip gloss" -- Brett Freedman, celebrity makeup artist

* "Brown blush like [my] Sandstone and Brown Berry Blush to give cheeks a touch of warmth" -- Bobbi Brown, beauty expert and author

* "Shiseido Translucent Eyebrow Shaper, a new sheer gel that gives lasting contour and definition to brows" -- Tom Pecheux, makeup artist and Shiseido color creator

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