Perfect pitas, more at Kabob Hut

TAKEOUT

August 28, 2002|By Tom Waldron | Tom Waldron,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

At some carryouts, you can watch a cook pound pizza dough into the right shape and thickness. At the Kabob Hut, you get to watch the help knead and mold the pita dough.

The night we visited the small Towson eatery, the cook deftly shaped the dough over a mold and popped the breads into an oversized metal oven. The pitas were pulled out only minutes later, cooked perfectly.

Such pleasures make the Kabob Hut well worth a visit. Located on Allegheny Avenue just a few paces from York Road, the carryout has a few tables inside as well as some on the sidewalk. The decor, such as it is, features photographs of New York and Middle Eastern sites. Fake flowers grace each table.

The Kabob Hut's menu, naturally enough, revolves around grilled vegetables and meats - mostly chicken and beef - as well as a handful of Persian specialties.

We tried both chicken and beef kebabs. The chicken version ($5.75) featured nicely seasoned chunks of white meat on a hot pita, accompanied by delicious grilled tomato chunks and a refreshing yogurt sauce.

We splurged on the fessen june sauce ($3.95) to go with the chicken. The rich brown concoction was made with ground walnuts and pomegranate juice, and added a sweet, exotic grace note to the meal.

The beef kebab ($6.75), which promised "tenderloin," was marinated, salty chunks of meat that seemed a bit too chewy to qualify as tenderloin. But coupled with tomatoes and yogurt sauce, and wrapped in a pita, the beef was adequate.

An order of grilled vegetables ($3.95) included more of those smoky tomatoes, as well as onions, bell pepper and a couple of mushroom slices.

Finally, we loved the khoresht-gheymeh ($6.95), a piping-hot stew of split chickpeas, beef pieces, onion, tomato and curious little potato sticks. The savory mix went well over basmati rice. The only dessert available is baklava, that super-sweet Middle Eastern pastry, which is made on the premises.

The Kabob Hut has no parking lot, meaning you'll have to feed a meter and, perhaps, walk a bit. It's worth it.

Kabob Hut

Food:

Service:

Waiting area:

Parking:

Where: 13 Allegheny Ave., Towson

Phone: 410-821-8005

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday; 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Salads and entrees from $3.95 to $12.95; credit cards accepted

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