Wine of the week

WINE OF THE WEEK

July 31, 2002|By Michael Dresser

2000 Boordy Vineyards Petite Cabernet ($9.75). This Maryland wine is a textbook example of how to turn adversity into opportunity. Boordy owner Rob Deford recalls 2000 as a "nightmare year" when constant rain prevented his cabernet sauvignon from ripening properly. Had he tried to make a typical cabernet, it would have certainly been subpar. So what he did with the lightweight juice was cut back on its skin contact and time in oak, preserving what fruitiness he had. He then bottled it under his proprietary "petite cabernet" label and released it early at a reduced price. The resulting wine is a delightful, uncomplicated red wine with Beaujolais-style body but pure and vibrant cabernet flavor. It won't age well, but it is ideal for casual quaffing with grilled burgers or steaks between now and November. (You could chill it slightly.) Winemakers all over - especially in Bordeaux - could profit from Boordy's example of how to cope with a rainy year.

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