2000 Chaddsford Cabernet Sauvignon, Pennsylvania. $17...

Wine of the week

April 24, 2002|By Michael Dresser

2000 Chaddsford Cabernet Sauvignon, Pennsylvania. $17. This soon-to-be-released cabernet has a style all its own - and a most appealing one it is. You won't have to be a Master of Wine to recognize at one sip that this is not a California cabernet. The gripping black cherry and black currant fruit flavors and nuances of earth, herbs, vanilla, coffee, mint and eucalyptus could come from the Napa Valley, but the structure is distinctly different. What it lacks in heft it more than makes up for in intensity and the racy character of its finish. A little raw now, it should mellow out in the coming months and develop in complexity for years. It should arrive in Maryland in limited quantities in a few weeks, but this wine is worth a trip to the winery in the southern Philadelphia suburbs. Call 610-388-6221 for information on availability.

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