More Luck in Annapolis


March 07, 2002|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Annapolis already has two Joy Luck Chinese carryouts. Now the Joy Luck Emperor, a fine-dining restaurant, has opened at 177 Main St. The food isn't like what you'll find at other Chinese restaurants - no kung pao chicken or sweet and sour pork. Instead, says manager Catherine Chen, "It's authentic, but we're breaking traditions." She describes the food as French-Chinese. Sushi and Japanese specialties are also on the menu.

The Joy Luck Emperor is open every day for lunch and dinner. Entrees range in price from $8.50 to $26.95.

New and fresh at Regi's

"The only things in the freezer are ice cream and shrimp," says Alan Morstein, whose wife, Sande, is the new owner of Regi's (1002 Light St.). Chef Patrick Williams, last seen in the kitchen of Claddagh's Pub, emphasizes very fresh ingredients, including fresh seafood, herbs, hand-cut french fries and even fresh-squeezed juices.

Morstein says he wants to keep prices under $20 (except for the jumbo lump crab cakes). That includes dishes like rack of lamb with a roasted garlic demi-glace, pecan-encrusted red snapper and sea bass with a red-pepper caper sauce.

Regi's is open every day for lunch and dinner, and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday.

Turf Inn again

The more things change ... The Turf Restaurant and Sports Bar (2306 York Road) has gone back to being the Turf Inn, which was almost an institution in Timonium before it became a Damon's rib franchise.

The di Paola brothers, who had owned the Turf Inn for more than 30 years, had planned to open a restaurant elsewhere. But they decided they liked the Timonium location after all, let the Damon's owner out of his lease and reopened the place last spring as a restaurant and sports bar. The name, the brothers decided, didn't convey that the dining room is "casual fine dining," with a fireplace, linens and candlelight. So the Turf Inn name is back.

Some enchanted tearoom

The Enchanted Herb Garden and Tearoom (Valley Village Shopping Center, 9131 Reisterstown Road, Owings Mills) is now the Enchanted Herb and Tearoom. Clinton Spellman is running it again, after a year or so when it had another owner and then closed briefly.

The tearoom is open from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and tea. High tea, a substantial meal, costs $16.99 a person.

And talk about service. A party of Spellman's regulars asked him to buy appropriate hats for them and keep them at the tearoom, which he did. They bring their own gloves.

Easter takeout

"Takeout" sounds a little crude when applied to the Milton Inn (14833 York Road, Sparks), and the historic house is such a handsome setting that I'd rather eat there. Still, if you prefer holiday meals at home, the restaurant is offering a special takeout menu for Easter Saturday and Sunday, March 30 and 31. It features boneless leg of lamb and pork or lamb crown roast with side dishes. Prices range from $210 to $312, depending on the number of people you want to serve. Orders must be placed by the Wednesday before.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2519; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@

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