1999 De Loach California Zinfandel ($12). Good zinfandels have been edging up in price toward $20, so it's encouraging to find such high quality at this price. Often a generic California designation is a sign of mediocre quality, but not in this case. This medium- to full-bodied red offers vibrant berry fruit, a hint of black pepper and an appealing smoothness. It's not the biggest or most complex zinfandel, but it's entirely satisfying and an excellent value. Serve with a wide variety of red meat, roast fowl and pasta dishes.