New Soigne will serve seasonal menu

TABLE TALK

November 29, 2001|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Soigne, Edward Kim's new restaurant, is scheduled to open today at 554 E. Fort Ave. where Lynn's used to be. Kim's last kitchen was at the funky-stylish Ixia on North Charles Street. His managing partner is Lisa Heckman, who owned a catering company in Philadelphia and earlier this year hoped to buy the Ruby Lounge in Mount Vernon.

They renovated the space in what Kim calls SoHo art gallery style, with a cream background for whimsical art, black ceiling fans and bamboo sconces.

The cuisine is Kim's forte, Pacific Rim with American and Mediterranean overtones. The menu is seasonal. (Right now, hearty braised flavors are featured.)

Soigne is open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner and may open soon for brunch. Entrees are $12 to $22.

Meatloaf chic

News flash: Blue-plate specials go upscale. If you had any doubt that Americans were turning to comfort food - whether because of the unsettling times or just because winter looms - consider this. Meatloaf has become trendy.

OK, call it a trendlet. But the new Hawaiian fusion restaurant Roy's in the Inner Harbor serves Roy Y's Hawaii Kai Style Meatloaf with crispy onion rings and natural shiitake mushroom gravy for $14, while the new Courtney's Cafe and Restaurant in Timonium offers half veal, half Angus beef meatloaf with sauteed mushrooms and onions, Madeira sauce and homemade onion rings for $12.95.

The meatloaves and their sides remind me of the menus in one of my favorite cookbooks, America's Cookbook, published in 1941. There are two for "High Calorie Dinners," and these meatloaf dinners would fit right in.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore MD 21278; fax to 410-783-2519; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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